Ok, folks, here it is, my very first climbing blog post, prompted by the fine folks at Misty Mountain Threadworks and Blue Ridge Outdoors magazine who have been awesome enough to give me some support this year. If you’re a regular reader of past blog posts, please forgive me for a lack of overly-analytical, pseudo intellectual jargon here. I’m just going to talk about climbing.“I don’t want to write about climbing; I don’t want talk about it; I don’t want to photograph it; I don’t want to think about it; all I want to do is do it.” – Chuck Pratt First off, just a brief summary of where I’m at right now, and where I’ve come from as a climber.As of this season, Spring of 2015, I am 36 years old. I first roped up when I was 19, which means that I’ve been climbing for nearly half of my life. I learned first by toproping outside, and later by leading trad at Idaho’s City of Rocks and in the Southern Utah deserts. I never really spent much time in a gym until I moved to Dallas, TX for grad school in 2002, and became a regular at Exposure Rock Gym. This was the first place that exposed me to really strong plastic pullers. Dallas in particular has dozens of adolescent mutants who will scamper up your projects like cockroaches. I didn’t really do specific training, but rather just bouldered a lot, getting fairly solid in the v5/5.12 range.Much later, in 2008, I wound up moving to Columbus, Ohio, where I was easy weekend distance from both the Red and New river gorges. I also had access to an excellent co-op gym, Kinetic (which has since evolved into a great commercial facility). About this time, I began climbing with Mike Anderson, who is one of the foremost experts in climbing-specific training, and recently authored The Rock Climber’s Training Manual with his equally strong brother Mark. Climbing with Mike really opened my eyes to specific climbing workouts in the gym that went beyond just bouldering around on plastic. I won’t go into details here (you can find them on his site, or by searching “rock prodigy training”), but suffice to say that it was specific training – hangboarding, campusing, core exercises – that finally got me to break into the 5.13 range in 2011.In 2013, I left academia and opted to move to the New River Gorge, where I could put climbing and laid-back Appalachian living on the front burner of my life. My first season here at the NRG was good. I had just come off a foot injury, had really gone overboard on training upper body strength, and managed to jump back into 5.13s pretty quickly. However, eventually the lack of gym access caught up to me, and I began getting gradually weaker. It is actually really hard to stay in top shape by climbing outside all the time, especially at the NRG, where weather and hot summers can mean weeks of sub-par climbing conditions. I devoted the season of 2014 almost exclusively to trad climbing– slightly easier than my max, but much scarier. You can read about this season here. But I continued to get weaker, and by this past fall, I was wondering to myself if I had gone over the hill, in my mid-30s, with no career, and a mediocre climbing life that was approaching the point of diminishing returns.Which brings us to the 2015 season.This past winter, I took a month roadtrip to the desert Southwest, which I had not done for a while. Scenery, adventure, and new routes took precedence over physical difficulty, and I mostly focused on big, 1000+ foot routes in Nevada’s Red Rock Canyon. It was amazing to say the least, and got me in better cardio shape than I’ve been in a long time. However, my climbing performance suffered. I don’t think that I sent a single thing harder than 5.12a that whole trip.Perhaps the most productive thing I did this whole trip, believe it or not, was manage to get a lecture booked at Zion National Park, where I would discuss my recent book “Wrecks of Human Ambition,” a history of the red rock canyon country. And the added bonus? I’m hoping to climb Moonlight Buttress, over a dozen pitches of mostly 5.12 fingercrack, while I’m out there. This route has been a lifetime goal for me since I started climbing, and I am beyond psyched, no matter what the outcome is.Anyway, in February, I took a 180 degree turn from the wilds of the desert, and spent the month living with my girlfriend Karen at her home outside New York City. We skied, did a bit of ice climbing, and ate way too much restaurant food. However, my main climbing objective for this month was simple: SPEND TIME IN THE GYM! I knew that I was lacking the sheer, explosive power that comes easily to climbers in their 20s, and that I would have to build this, and then gradually transition into the sort of stamina that I would need for Moonlight’s grueling pitches of enduro-jamming. Don’t laugh, I really needed this gym sabbatical in a NYC winter.By mid-February, I had rediscovered my long-lost bouldering mojo, and was able to do v7-8 of varying styles fairly consistently, in various gyms. I then gradually started mixing it up with more endurance sessions, in which Karen and I would go to the gym early in the morning to avoid crowds, and knock out dozens of roped routes back-to-back. Gyms are awesome!By the first of March, I had returned to the New River Gorge, and began what I knew would be a rough transition to applying my gym fitness to the subtle weirdness of Nuttal Sandstone. I also began a quick, controlled calorie restriction diet that would allow me to drop 6-7 lbs in this final phase (it was nice to train bouldering power while I was a bit heavier, and eating awesome food in NYC).It’s been a bit challenging, but I think that things are starting to fall into place. I’ve gotten solid on all the vertical, techy 5.12s of Endless Wall that I love so much, and also thrown in some steep, endurance routes just to get me used to operating under a full pump, which will be key on Moonlight Buttress. The best possible training for Moonlight would be massive laps on single pitch cracks at Indian Creek, but I can’t complain with what I’m working with here. Just yesterday, I really felt that my endurance was coming together, when I managed to redpoint a new 5.13a second go, and then cooled down by running a lap on a 5.12+ that I had previously sent two days before. It felt good. There are three other 5.13 routes in the area that I have whittled down to one-hangs, and will hopefully send this spring.Anyway, I’d like to wrap up with a brief list of various goals for this year. The big one is Moonlight Buttress, and honestly even the single pitch projects I have here at the NRG are just “training” for it. But here are a few other things I’ve got on my radar. Here’s to hoping I can squeeze one more good season out of my mid-30s!Black Rider (aka the Pocket Route), 5.13a, Endless Wall, New River GorgeI’ve put a few runs into this route, and have one-hung it a couple times. Most people with whom I’ve climbed it float through a techy crux involving a shallow, slopey pocket, but have trouble at a thuggish roof pull immediately afterwords. I’m the opposite; this pocket crux gets me every time, and I’ve got an ever-present gash on my right index finger from a nasty crimp too, but have never had problems with the roof pull. This route is in the shade in the afternoon, so I’m putting it on the backburner while I devote more time to sunny routes that will soon be too hot.The Racist, 5.13b, Endless Wall, New River GorgeNot gonna lie, this thing is beyond me right now. Despite the fairly “low” grade, this climb gets done way less than the popular 5.14a “Proper Soul.” I’ve gotten gradually more comfortable with the reachy, intricate, and small holds of the lower 2/3s, but the upper two cruxes are still going to take a lot of work. Adding to this, the route gets sun most of the day, and is pretty much a winter route. May have to give it a rest until November, but if there is one route I’d love to throw myself at dozens of times, it is this one.Mercy Seat, 5.13a/b, Colosseum, Summersville, WVI’ve disliked this climb for a long time. It sits right next to Apollo Reed, a route that is without a doubt my all-time favorite pitch of sport climbing, and which I have douchily repeated around 60-70 times. Unlike Apollo, this route has some very insecure, weird movement, especially a weird twist/pull over a gravel conglomerate roof. Despite this, just yesterday, I hopped on it, and managed to get up to the final crux fairly easily, for the first time ever! This climb is good throughout the summer, so I won’t be aggressively trying it this spring.Titan’s Dice, 5.13a, Endless Wall, New River GorgeI have not yet gotten on this route this season, but it felt pretty doable last year, and is a good combination of both technique and all-out enduro burliness. Plus, how often do you get to use full-on offwidth technique on a sport climb?Greatest Show on Earth, 5.13a trad, Meadow River Gorge, WVThis thing is beautiful, and I think that my bouldering over the winter is finally making its core-intensive roof crack sequence a possibility for me. It is going to take a lot of work, though, and definitely is one of the hardest traditional lines I’ve put time into.– Paul Nelson maintains a personal blog, Rivers and Stone, in between climbing sessions at his base in the New River Gorge, W.Va. You can find Paul sweating it out on one of his many projects at Endless Wall, but if you don’t see him there, never fear — he’ll likely come by your campsite later at the American Alpine Club’s campground looking for money (it’s okay — he works there).
Sign up for our COVID-19 newsletter to stay up-to-date on the latest coronavirus news throughout New York A 12-foot male Minke whale covered in shark bites washed up dead on the beach at Robert Moses State Park on Wednesday, the Riverhead Foundation for Marine Research and Preservation said.Marine biologists responded Thursday to the scene between fields 3 and 4, where they performed a necropsy to determine the whale’s cause of death before burying it on the beach, a spokeswoman for the nonprofit said. The whale will then be buried on the beach.The case marks the third dead whale to wash up on Long Island in a 10-day span.A 28-foot juvenile male humpback whale was found dead on Fire Island on June 29. Experts said it died of blunt force trauma after being hit by a ship.The next day, an emaciated eight-foot-long female True’s beaked whale calf washed up in Westhampton Beach. Biologists determined that that whale died of starvation.Minke whales are a federally protected species that can grow up to 35-feet long, 20,000 pounds and have a lifespan of 50 years, according to the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration.Anyone who finds marine wildlife on the beach should call the foundation’s stranding hotline: 631-369-9829.
continue reading » The House Energy and Commerce Committee Wednesday advanced legislation intended to combat illegal robocalls to the full chamber. Ahead of the markup, NAFCU thanked the committee for its collaboration before the markup to tailor the bill to ensure consumers can receive important information from their credit union or other financial institutions.The Stopping Bad Robocalls Act (H.R. 3375) was advanced unanimously. Prior to its passage, committee members also approved of some amendments related to transparency, preventing the spoofing of hospital numbers, and increasing the penalties for perpetrators of illegal robocalls.NAFCU is supportive of the bill’s provision requiring the Federal Communications Commission (FCC) to issue regulations on the definition of “autodialer” within 6 months of its enactment. However, the association shared concerns about the bill’s narrow safe harbor for the FCC’s reassigned numbers database as it could impede credit unions’ ability to contact their members with important financial information. ShareShareSharePrintMailGooglePinterestDiggRedditStumbleuponDeliciousBufferTumblr
Beasiswa Pertamina Sobat Bumi (Pertamina Friends of the Earth Grant) has shortlisted more than 500 candidates for this year’s Pertamina Foundation grants. The candidates are set to carry on with interviews in the next stage of the selection process.“We’ve learned that many of the top achieving students, both academically and non-academically, are genuinely concerned about environmental and social issues. The high quality of most applications is due to such values. “We therefore did our best in shortlisting the candidates in order to deliver the grants to the most suitable ones,” Pertamina Foundation president director Agus Mashud S. Asngari said in a statement on May 9. The judges are Pertamina Foundation advisory board chief Heru Setiawan, supervisory board chief Narendra Widjayanto, advisory board member Syahrial Mukhtar, actress and education and women’s empowerment activist Dian Sastrowardoyo, Tjitra and Associates founder and managing partner Hora Tjitra, HOPE Worldwide Indonesia senior adviser Charles Ham and The Jakarta Post editor-in-chief Nezar Patria.“Through the Pertamina Friends of the Earth Grant, we expect the students to become future leaders that are capable of collaborating to find solutions for social problems,” said Heru.Dian, who is passionate about equality in education for women, said she hoped the grants would help create wise and hard-working women.“The scholarship can contribute to the future of women. There are many women who do not have enough money for their education, but they do have dreams. They are the hidden gems […]. I am looking for bright Indonesian women who are independent, talented and have the ability to bring themselves and Indonesia to a better place,” Dian said.Topics : Sobat Bumi is offering three types of financial support this year, with the shortlist consisting of 275 candidates for the regular bachelor’s degree grant, 222 candidates for the affirmation grant and 49 candidates for the vocational studies grant. The aid falls under the PF Prestasi program, which belongs to the Pertamina Foundation, launched in 2011. This year, the scholarship received online applications from 6,848 students between April 18 and May 5. Read also: COVID-19: Pertamina Foundation provides housing for medical workers at referral hospitalIn the upcoming interview phase, the candidates are to make their cases before six judges.
Norges Bank Investment Management, which manages the Norwegian sovereign wealth fund, Europe’s largest institutional investor, has also waded into the debate. It called for CEOs to be paid in shares that were locked-in for 10 years.“Companies are clearly looking for investors to engage on pay,” said Michael Herskovich, head of corporate governance at BNP Paribas Investment Partners. “Issuers are coming to us outside of voting season to hear what investors think.”In 2012, significant proportions of investors voted against pay packages at Aviva, Barclays, UBS, and Citigroup. At the time, such opposition was almost unprecedented.Iain Richards, head of responsible investment at Columbia Threadneedle, said it was “very, very likely” that the UK would see another shareholder spring this year as investors react against executive pay packages – and the people responsible for them.“If you have an issue with executive pay, shouldn’t you have an issue with the remuneration committee chair?” Richards said. “One of the characteristics I expect to see is a focus on the chairs of remuneration committees – taking responsibility for culture and approach, and being held to account for it.”Columbia Threadneedle voted against 23% of the remuneration proposals it saw last year, Richards said – and he expected a “marked uptick in voting action” in 2017.Hans-Christoph Hirt, co-head of Hermes Equity Ownership Services (Hermes EOS), added that this year was “probably as active as I’ve seen it”.“There’s a lot going on and a strong direction of travel,” Hirt said. However, he added that activity was unlikely to just focus around company AGMs as boards attempted to address shareholder concerns “behind the scenes”.Not just the shareholdersOther factors have also driven the uptick in engagement activity. Many companies in the UK face a binding vote on remuneration policy for the first time this year, after a rule requiring one every three years was introduced late in 2013.In addition, the Business, Energy, and Industrial Strategy (BEIS) committee – a group of politicians from the UK’s lower house of parliament – earlier this month published a green paper on corporate governance. In it, they called for a new approach to executive pay and for new rules to be implemented by the Financial Reporting Council (FRC).The BEIS committee said: “It is hardly consistent with [prime minister Theresa May’s] vision of an economy that works for everyone to see levels of pay for those at the top increasing at a rate that vastly exceeds increases for ordinary employees and which seemingly is at odds with the value created in the company.”The committee also called for boards to face a binding vote on pay within 12 months if more than 25% of shareholders voted against an initial proposal – an idea Columbia Threadneedle has supported.“If 25% of shareholders dissent on the remuneration report, you should then require it to be put to a binding vote next year,” Richards said. “They would then have 12 months to get their act together before a very public vote.”Linking pay and strategyCatherine Howarth, chief executive of ShareAction, said there was a “huge disconnect” between corporate profits and corporate pay.“In the last 20 years, particularly in the FTSE 100, pay has leapt ahead of shareholder returns,” she said.ShareAction’s activities this year will focus on the link between remuneration and corporate strategy, Howarth added. Major UK listed companies such as Shell and BP face “significant challenges” regarding climate change and carbon emissions in the next 10-20 years and “really need to prioritise their business strategies”, she said.The BEIS committee’s paper recommended that bonuses be aligned with “broader corporate responsibilities and company objectives”, and tasked the FRC with incorporating it into their forthcoming corporate governance work.“We’re saying shareholders should be engaging with boards of directors to see how they’re going to be successful investment in a low carbon world,” Howarth said.“The remuneration policy should be encouraging directors to focus on that. At the moment pay is linked to selling more oil and gas. We think that’s out of line with long-term strategy and requirements. We don’t think they are presenting to shareholders a plan that is long-term resilient.”The Pensions and Lifetime Savings Association last year set out tough new guidelines for voting on executive pay, while the Social Democrats party in Germany has made executive pay an important part of its election manifesto. The European Union is also considering introducing binding vote rules for remuneration at European listed companies.“The shareholder spring showed that investors overall are ready and do not hesitate to say ‘no’ or to put forward shareholder proposals,” said BNP Paribas’ Herskovich. “I would expect more and more markets to get binding votes on pay.” The public debate over executive pay at BP could be just the start of another ‘shareholder spring’, according to engagement experts.Listed companies are seeking investors’ feedback more than ever in a bid to avoid unfavourable headlines regarding executive pay, several investors told IPE.While headlines have trumpeted uprisings among disgruntled shareholders for each of the past five years, co-ordinated activities led by groups such as ShareAction in Europe and International Shareholder Services in the US indicate that 2017 could lead to significant results.At BP, CEO Bob Dudley has agreed to a pay cut this year following criticism of previous remuneration.
Francis Orville Webster, 84 of Batesville, formerly of Lawrenceburg, passed away on Tuesday, May 19, 2020. The son of Howard and Elsie (nee: Lucas) Webster was born on June 23, 1935 in Columbus, IN.Francis worked as an antique dealer and in furniture restoration business for many years. He was a US Army Veteran having served in Korea. Francis was a member of the VFW and Lawrenceburg American Legion Post #239.He is survived by his daughters, Sandra Callec (Gilles) and Gayle Hacker (Jeff); son, Dr. Brian Webster (Addison); 10 grandchildren, 8 great grandchildren; along with his brother, Timothy Webster and sisters, Prudence Croft and Kay Ballard.In addition to his parents, he was preceded in death by his wife JoAnn Webster (nee: Frey).Graveside services will be Friday, May 22, 2020 at 2:00pm in the Greendale Cemetery, Greendale, IN with military honors by the Vietnam Veterans Chapter #71.We also encourage you to leave a message at www.meyersfuneralhomes.com on Francis’ obituary page for the family in the online guestbook.
RelatedPosts We stand by elections we conducted, Anambra FA Electoral Committee says Anambra FA elects executives through e-voting Anambra FA: Ubah, 64 others get clearance for board, LFC elections As the preparation for the Nigeria Professional Football 2020/2021 hots up, after the disruption of 2019/2020 season by the COVID-19 pandemic, Lafia-based Nasarawa United on Thursday announced the signing of the midfield maestro, Sadeeq Abdulrazaq, to their fold.Abdulrazaq, a former FC Ifeanyi Ubah, Niger Tornadoes and Gombe United midfielder, will now lace boots for the Solid Miners side for the NPFL 2020/2021 season. The Media Officer of the Club, Amos Eche, in a statement in Lagos said the mercurial midfielder got the recruitment nod based on the recommendation of the management of the team.Eche said: “Following the recommendations of the two committees set up by the Management of Nasarawa United FC ahead of the new football league season, we have secured the services of Sadeeq Abdulrazaq.“The mercurial midfielder is expected to formalise his move to the Lafia-based Club in few days to come after undergoing his medical fitness test.“The club’s management has agreed terms with the player’s agent and the Nigerian Football Federation’s intermediary agent, Shuaibu Yakubu, to fast- track his release.”The Chairman, Isaac Danladi, said the decision to bring the energetic player to the club was to add depth and dominance in the midfield of the Governor Abdullahi Sule’s wards and make a statement in the new league season. Tags: Gombe UnitedIfeanyi UbahNasarawa UnitedNiger TornadoesSadeeq Abdulrazaq
Newcastle boss Alan Pardew admits he is still desperate to sign a new striker as the Magpies approach their daunting Barclays Premier League season-opener at Manchester City on Monday night. Press Association Pardew said: “It’s important we get another striker in. Last year we were shy of strikers especially after Demba Ba left, and we need to make sure we have a sound back-room in terms of strikers. “It’s always frustrating in the transfer market but we’ve got a strong squad and we did some business last January which put us in good fettle because the six months of experience they got will stand them in good stead. “I think the figures the top clubs are paying out is ridiculous. We can’t compete with them on a financial level so we have to be as clever and shrewd as we can, and get players in of the same quality but for a lot less money.” Despite plenty of summer speculation to the contrary, Pardew maintained he is happy with the set-up at St James’s Park following the controversial appointment of Joe Kinnear as Director of Football. Pardew added: “Joe’s position here is to make sure the transfers come in and he’s working hard to do that. He’s taken over Derek Llambias’ job and so far it’s working okay.” Pardew’s summer has been one of frustration in the transfer market with only Loic Remy arriving on a season-long loan from Queen’s Park Rangers – and the Frenchman is ruled out until next month with a calf injury. Pardew revealed the club had been “close” to landing Aston Villa’s Darren Bent before he opted for Fulham, and insisted the lack of success in the transfer market was not for want of trying.
Matches in the Georgetown leg continue tonightMATCHES continue this evening in the Georgetown leg of the Guinness Greatest in the Street Football Tournament.This evening’s opening fixtures, set to take place at Demerara Park will see Alexander Village against Up Like Seven while North Ruimveldt take on Jamoon Drive.Albouystown A play Upsetters this evening as well, with Back Circle taking on Hope Street Tiger Bay, Broad Street Ballers opposing Howes Street, North East La Penitence facing Island All Star B, Albouystown B challenging West Back Road and West Front Road clashing with Stevedore Baller.Last Monday evening, two-time defending champions Sparta Boss squeezed through the opening round with a tense 3-1 penalty win against Hardina Street.In the opening fixture of the evening, Queen Street Tiger Bay overcame Fruit Stand 2-0 thanks to a brace from Deon Alfred in the 4th and 6th.Camp Street All-Stars booted Railway Kitty from the competition, compliments of a 3-1 score line; goals coming from Wendell Austin (15th), Dwayne Christopher (17th) and Steve Bacchus (27th) while Shane Cooper scored his team’s lone consolation goal.Bent Street were also victors on Monday night as they dispatched Holmes Street Tiger Bay 2-1 with goals from Anthony Abrams (23rd) and Stellon David (28th). Akeem Saul (4th) was on target early for the losers.Game four saw Leopold Street also move on to the next round after goals from Sheldon Profitt (7th) and Orandel Williams (14th) downed South Ruimveldt 2-0.Game five was laden with goals as Festival City Warriors beat Norton Street Ballers 5-2. Festival City had Eon Alleyne on target from the whistle in the16th second and 5th minute while Cecil Williams (15th), Dwayne Lawrence (21st) and Daniel Favourite (24th) each registered wins. Norton Street scorers were Joshua Parvatan (20th) and Nigel Decamp (30th)Tucville needled Island All-Stars A 1- 0 thanks to Delon Williams (24th) while Channel 9 Warriors downed Shopping Plaza 2-1 thanks to Kevin Barrow (2nd) and Joshua Fiffee (26th) while the Plaza had Stephen Dolphin (6th) on target.The first round of the tournament will be straight knockout while the round of 16 which begins on Saturday will take a round-robin format. The winners of the leg will cart off $500, 00, second-placers $200 000, third-placers $150 000 and fourth-placers $75 000.There are also legs billed for the West Coast Demerara, West and East Coast Berbice, Linden and Bartica.
For more AP college basketball coverage: https://apnews.com/Collegebasketball and http://twitter.com/AP_Top25___This was generated by Automated Insights, http://www.automatedinsights.com/ap, using data from STATS LLC, https://www.stats.com Share This StoryFacebookTwitteremailPrintLinkedinRedditSt. John’s (14-13, 3-11) vs. No. 12 Villanova (21-6, 10-4)Finneran Pavilion, Villanova, Pennsylvania; Wednesday, 6:30 p.m. ESTBOTTOM LINE: No. 12 Villanova looks to give St. John’s its sixth straight loss against ranked opponents. St. John’s’ last win vs a ranked opponent came against the then-No. 16 Arizona Wildcats 70-67 on Dec. 21, 2019. Villanova is looking to extend its current four-game winning streak. Associated Press February 25, 2020 LEADING THE WAY: Villanova’s Collin Gillespie has averaged 15.7 points and 4.6 assists while Saddiq Bey has put up 15.8 points and five rebounds. For the Red Storm, LJ Figueroa has averaged 14.8 points, 4.4 rebounds and 2.1 steals while Rasheem Dunn has put up 11.2 points.LOVE FOR LJ: Figueroa has connected on 36.3 percent of the 168 3-pointers he’s attempted and has gone 9 for 23 over the last three games. He’s also made 69 percent of his foul shots this season.SCORING THRESHOLDS: St. John’s is 0-9 when its offense scores 68 points or fewer. Villanova is a perfect 15-0 when it holds opponents to 69 or fewer points. The Wildcats have allowed 64.6 points per game over their last five.UNDEFEATED WHEN: The Wildcats are 15-0 when they hold opposing teams to 69 points or fewer and 6-6 when opponents exceed 69 points. The Red Storm are 5-0 when the team blocks at least seven shots and 9-13 when they fall short of that total.DID YOU KNOW: The St. John’s offense has recorded a turnover on only 15.9 percent of its possessions, which is the 20th-best rate in the nation. The Villanova defense has forced opposing teams to turn the ball over on just 17.4 percent of all possessions (ranked 290th among Division I teams).___ St. John’s looks to knock off No. 12 Nova